HEDGEROW HARVEST ?

Today we took a gentle amble down the bottom of one of my favourite valleys. In the past few years, Cwm Byrgym has been a pleasure to explore at this time of year for several reasons. It is out of the chilling autumnal winds and ... promises a bountiful free harvest.

A valley still deeply scarred by the effects of coal mining, the slag heaps stand out looking like blackcurrant dark, jelly moulds, disfiguring the landscape even after years of "rest". But at the end of this long disused mining site there is a gate and stile, leading to pasture.

Looking back up the steep sided valley one can almost forget the disfigurement of the landscape. To the left the beech trees are starting to turn autumnal gold and high in the crags the buzzards are circling and calling, and down on the ground there are normally plenty of opportunities for a free harvest, but as I was to discover, not this year.

At first, I was hopeful when I saw this heavily berried hawthorn. Now that may not seem an unusual sight at this time of year, but ... over the last few weeks I have seen so many hawthorn hedges without berries. I mentioned earlier in the year that the hard hitting rain came at a time when these tender blossoms were de-petalled and the chance of insects pollinating them were few and far between. This applied to many other species too and as I walked further, the proof of that untimely weather has shown a great lack of fruit.

Meanwhile, this is also "horse country" and we were subject to inquisitive equine looks.

But I was mostly more interested in the hedgerows and what fruit they had to offer. Sadly this year, the answer was very little. I know this area well and in past years I have gathered all sorts of free, preservable. harvest. This autumn there were no crab apples, and on the old damson trees barely a fruit to be seen. Not a sign of whinberries and very few elderberries, no oyster mushrooms and an old apple tree with no leaves and only 21 immature apples. Even the rose hips were scarce. Of hazelnuts, not a sign of anything! Old crab apple trees that are normally heavily laden with golden, rosy fruit were bare. The only thing in abundance were blackberries, large ones but ... but too large to be packed with any real flavour. It was all very disappointing and it made me wonder ... had I been someone from the past with such a poor hedgerow harvest to rely on ... how would I survive? This sentiment was highlighted as I explored the site of an old stone built house.
In the trees the birds were busy, but I wonder about their survival in the months ahead.

I wandered around what is left of it, the dilapidated walls, the sad remnants of a once home to someone. What would it have been like living here and with what amazing views!

 To the west, towards Blaenavon and to the east, a view over the Severn to England. But those views would have meant little in an autumnal scarcity of hedgerow harvest.

A close examination of the stone remains, show how small this house actually was.

It was obviously a two storey building but the holes for the second floor were barely above head height (six foot ceiling on the ground floor?) and then a tiny narrow stone stairway that now goes nowhere, except into the thin air. Where the chimney once let wood and coal smoke into the air, there is now (rather aptly)  a Mountain Ash sapling, also known as a RowanTree. That too had no berries. One can only imagine what it was like to live here and for me today ... I wondered how they would have coped without the freely available additions to the larder that could be gleaned locally. As for me ... I can easily survive thanks to our local supermarket but my freezer will be less stocked with free and normally easy pickings, so few home made jams for next year and few hedgerow based puddings. Oh well ... there's always the hope that next year will be better ... maybe.

WEIR ... WEEK SIX.

It is hard to believe that three weeks have passed since I wrote about the changes in the weir on the Ebbw between Aberbeeg and Llanilleth. So much has changed over the last weeks. The big yellow dinosaurs of heavy plant and the men have been busy despite many delays such as the arrival of reinforced concrete, the trucks arriving late in the day and the men, having done all the work reshaping the top weir ready for the thick liquid mix to be poured in, have had to stand around waiting, so they could get on with the job.

 With only twenty minutes setting time, it didn't help that the loads had to be put into the outstretched arm of the digger and quickly poured into the shuttering where eager hands spread it and then shaped it into an even surface as fast as it was hardening.

These were the scenes on the 28th of August ... during the fourth week.

 On th 5th September, a week later, this side was complete and  having re-diverted the river to allow for safe working conditions, the far side was ready for its concrete mix. 

Five days on & the other side had been filled and hardened, leaving just the centre section.

All this involved the repositioning of tons of rocks and the 2 ton concrete blocks and then when the concrete had set, moving them all round again for the next part of the plan.

The guys are a friendly bunch and put up with us locals regularly checking progress and asking all sorts of questions about why and what as well as photographing them working.

Now ... to bring you fully up to date, here are some of the scenes from this afternoon.

The top weir is finally almost complete, there is less of an angle to flow down and with the new design of the river bed, now a mixture of three ton rocks and a whole lot of smaller stuff in between, allowing small pools for the fish to rest in. And up either side, the black eel runs can clearly be seen and ... as we witnessed today, there are certainly eels in there.

<<<Further down something was going on and I could hear lots of laughter. But as I walked down to investigate the cause of all the hilarity I was impressed by the new colours and shapes in the river bed, the water running clean and freely along its newly designed stretch. It has been a fascinating six weeks watching all this work in progress, the river changing from day to day and learning from the lads about how all the alterations are leading towards an end result.   Now the work will concentrate on the lower weir which is   the one going through dramatic changes.

The whole area above the weir has become an untidy, muddy set of very, slush, muddy pools and ... I found out why my friends were laughing so much. The men were there with a child's fishing net trying to catch trout and eels and move them to safety in the river before they carried on changing the shape of the river bed. The trout were easier to catch but eels are, by nature, slippery creatures and netting them wasn't an easy job. It was like watching three grown men become kids again as they splashed about in the murky, disturbed water and it had us all grinning and laughing. Meanwhile the mad mutt was making friends with a rather lovely female spaniel and both were chasing tennis balls (an easier catch). 

The digger made a small channel and we watched amazed as one eel, about three foot long,  found it's way out into the fast flow of diverted water. If you look carefully to where the man is looking at what seems like a black stick in the fawn coloured muddiness ... that's the eel, snaking through the sludge, escaping to freedom and fresher water. The trout were easier to net and as yet ... not big enough to eat, but it was lovely to see one about to be set free and at least for the time being it can explore the new landscape of the river.

HOW GREEN IS MY VALLEY.

Today saw me driving around a bit for various reasons. It has been a strange mix of sights and seasonal feelings. The sky was summery, the trees are starting to look autumnal as the beech trees start to turn golden and the temperature with wind chill was more like winter but seeing so many very young calves in green pastures it seemed more like spring.

As I stopped here and there to take photographs and soak in the views, I didn't realise until tonight, trying to choose which ones to use, that there would be a theme for today.

It started off with this one ...

taken from the back of the old church as I stood talking to a long distance walker, an Englishman who has lived in Wales for forty years and just loves trekking over the country, with its magnificent views, like this that looks out over deep, glacial valley.

I left the church and drove up onto the mountain and saw a different view of the same valley, but to my amazement and delight, the valley to the right was filled with colour ...

I've never seen anything like it (though it's not very clear here) the valley was filled with shimmering rainbow colours but not in the usual clearly defined arc of a rainbow. The image didn't last long but I felt it was something special to be where I was at the right time to witness this unique moment, but there again wherever we are whatever we witness, they are all unique moments because nature is constantly changing all the time.

Just notice the difference between the two skies in the photographs, just an hours difference and then a mere twenty minutes later having driven to another area, this ...

a field recently harvested for hay, now has cattle and sheep peacefully grazing the fresh growth of grass after just a few weeks of rain and warm sunshine. A lovely sight.

Not far, further along the road about half an hour later and another sight caught my eye.

At first glance, I thought they were a different breed of sheep in amongst the cows (not an unusual sight) until I got close to the fence and realised they were two white calves. The field had a dozen very young looking calves and I watched them exploring their lush green pasture in the inquisitive way that the young do. It was such a pleasure to see them.

In the distance I could see the white dots of sheep and somewhere below me I could hear a tractor ploughing a field down in the valley ( a rare sight on this mountain). I got to thinking about how all this landscape has changed over thousands of years but more   especially over the last century. In all of the above photographs of the local area, it is hard to believe, were it not for the still visible scars as seen in the photo above, that this whole area was drastically darkened with the effects of industry. Coal mining, steel and iron works; quarrying for slate, lime and stone. But Nature is self healing and farming lends her a helping hand in this recovery of this once ravaged and drastically denuded land. Many of them worked in the mines when their fathers farms were not enough to support young sons. Some owned their own drift mines and so added to the scarring of the surface but now they have become the guardians of this reclaimed, re-greening pastoral landscape

I thought of the book written in 1939 by Richard Llewellyn, How Green was my Valley; and as I stood there looking at the still visible signs of slag heaps, and thought about the Wales I knew as a youth with it's dim. dingy, coal dark cloak, casting grim shadows over so much of it's  once glorious, glacial landscape and just thought "How green my valley is now." The pleasure I get from living in this area is immense as I see it go through the rotation of the seasons year after year. There is always something new to catch the eye, moments to give pause for thought both in the sky above and the landscape below.

By pure coincidence and unplanned I ended the day with the dog by the miners memorial, but this time from a different vantage point and I saw him in a  very different light ...

This rust red figure, "The Guardian" of the valleys, standing 20m tall on the old pit site.

I've often thought about what he would say if he could speak and possibly it might be ...

"How green my valleys are now."

A RUSH HARVEST

<<< This figure caused much amusement, as did all the others and the kids that got involved in making all the beings made of hay had a fun weekend when the weather was sunny and warm and the old churchyard resounded with the sounds of giggles and laughter.

Meanwhile the weekend saw the ending of the great events in London as the last days of the Olympics came to an end and what a great Olympics it has been and most of all the amazing Paralymics have been so very inspirational as all those athletes showed just what can be achieved despite adversity. It was great yesterday to see both teams celebrate and the streets of London were just crowded to capacity with supporters and to top it all Andy Murray has finally won a grand slam in the Tennis. All seems rather quiet now as things return to normal but for farmers life has been as busy as ever. These fine weather days have enabled them to catch up with work that has been delayed by weeks of rain, like late harvesting of more hayfields and ... rushes.

These tough plants spread over the thousands of acres of the commons and are mainly inedible for sheep but make a useful winter bedding material for cattle. So where the ground is flat enough for a tractor they have been mown down.

The machinery breaks them up into shorter lengths and splits the stems open revealing the soft spongy pith in the centre of the stalks. The whole area had the aroma of cucumbers!

The sheep, so used to grazing in and around the clumps were walking about looking rather bemused by the changes in their environment. This photograph was taken on Sunday, then on Monday ... yep ... it rained nearly all day and night. But the farmer persevered and ace after acre of moorland rushes fell under the blades. We just need a few dry days and then it can all get baled and the grass in between can grow for a while as the remaining free roaming sheep will soon be gathered in and sorted out.

It's hard to believe but it is almost time for the tups to be put to the ewes and the next generation will start. Over the autumn and winter months the commons will be free of sheep giving the grazing time to recover, ready for the ewes and their new lambs to roam on next year. All the droppings will rot down and re-enrich the many acres of grassland.

This was the sight that met my eyes today, the rushes mown down, changing the landscape quite dramatically. Even the dog looked bemused as he walked on a landscape that he is used to. He loves exploring in amongst the tall sturdy plants ... now all gone.

And, although the sun was shining in blue skies looking warm ... the wind was bitter, but looking on the bright side, it means that the mown rush lines will dry all the quicker ready for baling up. Soon, on another area of the commons, the bracken will be harvested too.

HAY ... & ... WHY?

Something appeared in the old churchyard yesterday ...  a figure reclining in the sunshine,

I returned to see what else may have happened and another hay figure was forming ... 

after wandering about amongst the various head stones, I returned to find another change

yesterdays figure had  a change of face, it seemed to have grown more hair. What was going on? It seemed as if the whole churchyard was changing, mysterious things were happening as the newly cut grass was gathered up. This one had grown longer hair  and the other hay figure was changing ...

I decided to return later in the day and see what other changes may have happened in my absence ... and I was in for a big surprise ... because other hay beings had appeared and even they were changing ...

And that was not all that was appearing ... in the far corner of the churchyard as the sun was beginning to set, this strange hay figure appeared, with a bottle of beer in its grasp,

an image of a local farmer who happens to like drinking a certain brand of local beer ...

So ... when they say "make hay whilst the sun shines" beware of the invisible  beings that change things! And as the sun sets in the western sky, one wonders what else may appear!

WHILST THE SUN SHINES

Today as I write, there is not a cloud to be seen in the sky ... just aircraft con-trails. The last dew days have been just wonderfully sunny, warm and with a light, cooling breeze. The area around the old church has been busy and yesterday saw the movement of cattle across the road from one field to another, to make room for a special delivery later.

The mountain road is narrow and not really suitable for heavy traffic. The farm tractors  normally take up most of the width as they travel back and forth but in the late afternoon a huge transporter came slowly and carefully down the road with much needed supplies.

This is winter straw being delivered for the cattle when they overwinter in the barn ...

and with not just one trailer but two in tandem &  I'm told there are two more of these giants yet to arrive. It's amazing to think this will all be in a giant manure heap next year.

This is wheat straw from the more arable lowlands down country. A hefty load!

Meanwhile in the old churchyard, another harvest is ongoing after the big annual strim.

All the cut grass has to be raked up and taken off site, so that it doesn't compost down and enrich the ground. It has become like a hay field, but one full of rather ornate stones ...

This work is done by humans by hand, carefully working the rakes in and around all the sunken headstones and hollows of the graves, some going back as far as 1730. Local people who keep rabbits have done well out of the free hay that gets piled up and bagged.

The bulk of it has been taken away in two huge trailer loads and will get composted down in amongst a great pile of cow manure and last winters straw in a nearby field all except the areas around the yew trees because the berries are poisonous to man and beast alike. That has been safely composted elsewhere. The grass is raked up into heaps and some also goes to feed the sheep  having been scattered in a field behind the old church. Several volunteers have been involved, it has been hot hard work with time out rests being taken. 

Where better than to lay back in the midday sun than on a suitably leaning headstone!

There's still plenty more to rake up yet and two days of this lovely sunny weather left

before the rain is due in again.

A SEPTEMBER SKY.

Apologies for the lack of posts recently but I've been gripped by the amazing events in the Paralympics. I think this year has set a precedent for the future. It's been inspirational.

Meanwhile here at home, today was amazingly hot and dry, farmers were out hay making again, all those fields that got left because of all the weeks of rain, the crop won't be as nutrient rich but better that than nothing come the cold, mountain blankets of snow over field and flock but let us not think too far ahead into the winter months.

A rare sight this year, a wonderful sunset ... 

the striations of clouds, stretching out over the late evening sky all up lit by the sinking sun and it was warm and dry down at ground level, a rare occurrence in these past few weeks. Swallows and swifts were skimming over the ground feeding on the insects.

Above us the sky was changing so quickly, a friend and I with cameras at the ready and there was one grave where the pink granite cross, briefly held a reflection of the sky.

Behind us, the ground level security lights had clicked into action and lit up the church. We stayed awhile chatting as the sun sank below the horizon, leaving all dark but the churchyard. The dog was eagerly sniffing the late evening scents as the bats started to fly.

We left the old church in it's fire bright light and headed off home into the now dark night.

SEPTEMBER START

These were the dramatic, dark grey, "sun" setting skies the last day of August ...

farmers were out on the mountain gathering the last unshorn stray sheep and didn't finish until almost dark. Despite the dark skies, there was no rain, just a dull end to the day.

So, things didn't look too good for the intrepid Three Churches Walk for today ... but ... this morning the skies were sun-full and bright with a stiff breeze herding the clouds up above.

The last church on the walk was St Iltyds, set up all ready for rewarding cream teas and lots of "eat me" cakes as a reward for all those who had tramped up from St Marks via Christchurch to the oldest of them all. It turned out they were not the only group out walking today and 16 walkers turned up out of the blue and were delighted to see inside this lovely old building. Sadly they were too early, the ladies with the cakes had not turned up yet but they sat outside in the sun and enjoyed just sitting in the churchyard for their own packed lunches before they set off again they were heading off to visit the Six Bells memorial statue.

The churchyard is going through it's annual "big cut" or ... hay making without bales.

As it is nominated as a wildlife conservation area, apart from the paths, the large variety of grasses are allowed to grow naturally throughout the year and the whole area is well seeded with various native flowering plants that provide food for various insects, butterflies and moths throughout the growing season. To watch the swifts, swallows and bats fly low above the tall, breeze bending grass heads is a really lovely evening sight. But the big cut has to be done and ... all the strimmed grass removed off site in order not to enrich the ground, which all helps the native plants nutrient poor soil to help them thrive.

The swallows and swifts are starting to gather on the overhead telephone wires, a sure sign that they are contemplating leaving us to over winter in a warmer African climate.

Some areas are left, especially those with the late mallow and field scabious still flowering so that there is still a source of interest for late butterflies, bees and other interested insects to forage from. It has been a bad year for all these species of flora and fauna.

But ... for today at least the humans were making the most of this lovely sunny start to September and across the valleys, farmers were busily trying to get the last of the hay baled. Some of the recently gathered mountain ewes still need to be sheared and as for the rams ... ? Well we are just  over a month away from the big October ram sales ...

 so they are getting extra feed to build them up and bring a sheen to their fleece because ...

come late October they will be fathers of next years generation, whichever farm they end up on. Welsh Mountain and Texel genes will keep the flocks of the future continuing on.

And ... the slowly decaying stump of this ancient  tree, protects a new generation of yew!

And in that stump I can see a face ... can you see it too?